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Rana's Silks & Sarees

The Saree is a traditional garment of India. Usually a piece of fabric 6 yards in length, the Saree is worn with an under skirt of a similar shade and a matching or contrasting Blouse or Choli. The Saree is wrapped around the skirt three times and tucked into the under skirt. The other end of the Saree or Pallau is either extensively embroidered or printed.

Description of Sarees can be given as both:

a.) A place of cloth draped to form the main xgarment of a women.

b.) A particular style of draping the cloth on the body of the wearer. A Saree has two dimensions, its length which may vary from 2 to 9 yards and its height, which varies from two to four feet. The design of most Saree cloths include five important parts, which must be learned in order to correctly drape a Saree.

I.) The upper border is usually the highest border, when the Saree is tied onto the body or tucked into the petticoat. It is used to make knot when the Saree is first tied.

II.) The lower border usually touches the feet when the wearer begins to drape the Saree.

III.) The pallau, which is the fanciest end of the Saree. It often falls on the outside where its design can be seen.

IV.)The mundanai is the end of the Saree that includes the pallau, but it is longer. It often covers the upper part or the head of the wearer.

V.) The mundi is the plainer end of the Saree. It is often draped to the inside where it does not show.

Saree Fashion: The textiles and draping styles of Sarees change with fashion. The width of the border and length of pallaus also change from one fashion period to the next. Fashion changes also occur in the accessories to the Saree. The design of Saree blouse changes quite a lot. Length and shape of the sleeves, necklines and bodice as well as the closure and fabric,constantly change through time.

Sarees are available in a number of fabrics like pure silk, cotton and synthetic and in various colors with embroidery gold thread or Zari, painting, cutwork and applique work.

Various groups in India tend to wear the Saree in different ways, which can be divided or categorized as:

1.) Bandhani: These are Sarees created by Dyeing the cloth in such a manner that many small resist dyed spots produce elaborate patterns over the fabric. Red and Black is the most common color combination but other color combinations are also found.

2.) Patola: The most time consuming and elaborate Saree created is the Patola,which has intricate five color design resist dyed into both warp and weft threads before weaving.

3.) Gujrati Brocade: These are extremely expansive and virtually extinct. These Sarees have butis (circular design) or floral design woven in colored silk, against a golden ground fabric (Woven Zari).

4.) Embroidered Tinsel: Saree The Saree with Zardozi the Gold Gilt thread embroidered technique at one time was patronized by Mughal Emperor and the aristocracy is today an inextricable part of bridal Trousseau.

5.) Paithani: These Sarees use an enormous amount of labor, skill and share expanse of material in their creation. Distinctive motifs such as parrots, trees, and plants are woven into the Sarees. The shades vary from vivid magenta, peacock green and purples.

6.) Maheshwari Sarees: These are available in both (cotton and silk), usually in green or purple with a Zari border. Traditional colors of these Sarees are earth shades of brown, grays and off-whites.

7.) Banaras Brocade: This Saree from Banaras is virtually mandatory in the bride's Trousseau. These Sarees vary tremendously as weavers create different products to suite different regional market and changing fashion. Most brocade usually have strong Mughal influence in the design such as intricate inter wiring floral and foliate, motifs, kalga, and bel.

8.) Kanjeevwaram Saree: No Indian bridal trousseau is complete with out the Kanjeevwaram Saree. Characterized by gold dipped silver thread that is woven into brilliant silk. Kanjeevwaram silk is thicker than almost all other silks and is therefore more expensive. Peacock and Parrot are the most common motifs.

9.) Konrad Sarees: These Sarees were originally woven for temple deities, are a specialty item from Tamilnadu. They are wide bordered Sarees and are characterized by wedding related motifs symbolizing water, fertility and fecundity.

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